Chefs, editors, conservationists and foodies agree on so little these days when it comes to seafood. Yet, no lesser authority than Ruth Reichl and her editors have chosen Chef Moonen's, Fish Without a Doubt, (FWD) as their inaugural pick for the just-launched Gourmet Cook Book Club. This truly is an essential book for any new cook or even a cook who is just new to cooking fish and seafood.
Take Jacques Pepin, Ming Tsai, Carl Safina (the Blue Ocean Institute) and the senior scientist of the Environmental Defense Fund - all these people agree on a seafood cook book? Maybe we can get Chef Moonen to turn his attention to the West Bank next.
And he is expert at allaying fears and concerns, which is at the heart of why so many cooks fear fish.
Layout, Graphics, Design Easy to Follow
One of the strengths of this book is its layout. Fish Without a Doubt begins with the basics about fish cookery that can be barriers for many people.
Which fish?
Unfamiliarity with types of fish, lack of knowledge about which are acceptable substitutes. Most recipes have a bullet "Accept Substitutes" which tells you which fish can be substituted for the one called for in the recipes. We might be familiar with cuts of beef and most cooks would know whether a substitution of a chuck roast would work or not for a filet mignon (it would not.) But what about turbot for Arctic Char?
Is it done? Is it fresh? What's the best way to cook it?
These are answered for all types of fish and shellfish. Even step-by-step picture guides (90 of them!) are provided for cleaning fish, for shucking clams and oysters, for wrapping en papillote.
How to store it? What about the smell?
Again, common questions infrequently voiced stand in the way of many home cooks' relationship with fish. Straight talk reigns and simple advice on all is dispensed. Which fish to store in what ways.
Sustainability
Another strength of the book is the author's simple way of addressing issues of sustainability. One of the leaders of the swordfish ban when it was endangered, Moonen is no stranger to the issues of sustainability today. He was a thoughtful and enthusiastic panelist at the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Sustainability Institute in May of 2008.
Moonen gives enough data with sources to back it, without preaching or scolding. He says simply, here's the information, you decide. Particularly helpful to new cooks, and cooks new to fish, is the section which gives an overview of 34 types of fish and shellfish. Quick bullets supply information on particular characteristics, flavor, buying tips, how to cook.
Recipes
250 recipes ranging from old school (court bouillon) to more contemporary preparations (tamarind paste anyone?) FWD gives fairly streamlined recipes that can be modified as confidence is gained. Seasoned cooks may think this book has little to offer them but how many of them have actually prepared a tea-steamed sea bass? Recipes for salads, pickles, butters, and sauces also appear with clear instructions and advice.
Need help getting your kids or husband to eat fish? Who doesn't love a sloppy joe? Catfish Sloppy Joes make for an easy introduction.
Fish Without a Doubt, Rick Moonen, Roy Finnamore, Houghton Mifflin Co., 2008 - 978-0-618-53119-6, $35.00
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