Duckathlon V - Wacky Culinary Contest in NYC

Like Rain off a Duck's Back - Saying Takes on New Meaning

May 27, 2009 Jacqueline Church

D'Artagnan's fifth annual gastronomic obstacle course saw some (very wet) NYC restaurant teams competing at games like Meat Twister, blind tastings, ID the offal.

In the most French way (wine and tuba included) Team D’Artagnan hosted the fifth annual “Duckathlon” on a recent rainy day in New York City’s Meatpacking District. Culinary esprit de corps was in evidence as were true tests of skills along side crazy games. The top secret mission of this judge was to keep the secret until after the event.

Fun in Service of Foie

The old saw “like water off a duck’s back” was an apt motto for the day, as team after team of chefs from the city’s top restaurants competed in 30 different (mostly) serious (mostly) gastronomic challenges. Once a year, this fabled race encourages the zaniest behavior from otherwise civilized citizens. Donning duck feet, feathers and flippers (and one scooter) or Cow Masks (complete with earrings) contestants scurried through the rain from station to station to try their culinary skills such as:

Identifying game birds
Matching the testicle to the animal
Flipping crepes
Matching Latin names to variety of mushrooms
Blindfolded spice identification
Making an emulsion with a BBQ fork
Speed-Cleaning Lobster
Guessing the weight of a suckling pig

Some of the stages of the competition were decidedly less culinary but kept in theme and kept the contestants on their toes in other ways. See for example the game of Meat Twister at Craftsteak which also hosted the Ale Identification challenge.

Food, Fabulous French Food

There was cheese, foie gras, mustard, and relays that included macarons and boxing gloves. Perhaps two of the favorite events were the hoop skirt-blind, dunk-the-sausage-into-the-milk-can challenge and the flipper race balancing duck eggs on spoons, held in the contestants’ mouths. Some of these games are said to be the sort that people play at weddings in France.

The best part of the event is that it combines the true love of good food with good fun. And, it pits teams of rising and established culinary stars in some true challenges. Identifying Armangnac from mere brandy by scent alone. It must be said, this was won last year by Cercle La Rouge’s youngest team member without a sip. He was ten! That is some great training there, non?

Cercle la Rouge, the defending champs had the most elaborate costumes but ultimately prior champs Annisa reclaimed victory!

Jacques Torres came in third, Tribeca Grill second and Annisa first.

Judges were given a knapsack full of plastic duckies to award or deduct “for fowl play”. When one is serenaded by a trio of cute young chefs, for example ducks are awarded. They really hammed it up those boys from Bar Boulud and were a really fun team.

Following one team throughout the obstacle course enabled a first-time judge to get a good sense of the overall course.

Celebrity Sightings

In addition to the fabulous Karinne Bakhoum (she of fabulous shoes and minor kerfuffles), the winner Anita Lo was incognito with a rather large moustache. Charming RoadFoodie Cookbook author Brigit Binns was there, just as sunny as the day was rainy. Jeffrey Chodorow perused the perimeters. Award-winning writer Carolyn Jung AKA Food Gal (a finalist for best food blog in the Association of Food Journalists competition) was a surprise.

Restaurant Teams

Mr. Chocolate himself, Jacques Torres is an annual favorite. Cercle La Rouge duckiest dressed fielded a fun team including color-coordinated pyrotechnics. Tom Colicchio's Craft, Le Bernardin, Daniel, Le Cirque, Tribeca Grill, even the governor's mansion fielded a team "Team Gracie".

Fun with a Serious Mission

Though it's difficult to think "serious" when there's a tuba involved, this event is in service of important food values. Who can make a proper emulsion with a BBQ fork? Or identify Armagnac from the nose? Or olive oils? Game birds yet unplucked? By breed and gender? Ariane Daguin was recognized in 1994 by the James Beard Foundation as a "Who's Who of Food and Beverage in America" and was also honored by Bon Appetit Magazine with a Lifetime Achievement award. She is not only a purveyor of fine foods but an ambassador for culinary excellence and fun. Let us never take ourselves so seriously we can't be hurled down a "paquito" line. What is that you ask? You must see it for yourself. Video is available here.

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